For the moment, I'm bitchin' about appliances in general ... but, one in particular.
Our laundry dryer quit working tonight while my wife was doing some urgent catching up. She had some of her work uniforms and a huge load of undie-things all wet when it stopped.
The next half hour was all about a panic attack (hormonal, I might guess and if she sees this ....... then, - seriously!) and how this can't happen, NOW!! This just can't fucking happen!
... but it did and there was nothing I could see wrong that I could fix. It seems obvious that some form of safety attachment, which safeguards us from ourselves and our dangerous laundry, has malfunctioned, but it's fucking SUNDAY NIGHT!! It can't be fixed right now!!
I went into the top storage areas of the garage and grabbed two big-heavy-assed background stands from the old photography days and a crossbar, whic I erected next to the heat vent in the dining room. Now we have twelve feet of indoor "line" to hang up things that can go on hangers.
I then found some old (brand new, but I've had it for a while) garden tie rope and strung it across the kitchen, between the cabinet handles to fashion a makeshift indoor (It is still many degrees below freezing outside - that's not an option!) clothesline, four lines across the kitchen! FFS!!
She's calmer, I'm calmer, everyone is calmer and there is underwear and t-shirts and socks and thermals hanging in the kitchen.
... best I could think of at the time.
Electric or gas? Could be a belt they go every few years. With that you'd get heat but no spin. Both gas and electric ones have sensors so they don't over heat. If electric it could also be the heating element gas it could be a dirty nossel on the burner
Thanks, but it's not the belt or the timer. I'm pretty sure there is a problem with either the door safety switch (which actually "feels funny") or the temperature safety switch located inside the manifold that houses the electrical heating element.
The element itself looks almost unused (shiny, still). It is not electrically open, due to overheating or some such, but I have no idea what the resistance should be. I measures seven hundred ohms, with one end disconnected. There is voltage on both sides of the timer and it counts down, as always. There is voltage on both sides of the temperature control. I am not sure yet how the over-temp safety works and I can't get to the door switch yet. I have to take the fucking thing apart more.